Friday, May 29, 2009

Noquis Del 29

I think my favourite food holiday ever has to be the 29th of the month, Noquis Night. Here in BsAs they promote the celebration of food, specifically noquis (or gnocchi), on the 29th of every month. Every where you go in the city on the 29th you're bound to see signs up in the bars, restaurants and of course, the pasta fresca shops, advertising special meals and deals for noquis. The tradition follows that by the end of the month you were most likely pretty low on cash, so flour and potato (being the cheapest foods around) are combined to make a delicious meal you can't shake a stick at. Traditionally you're supposed to put your last 100 peso bill under the plate to make your money last as long as the meal, however I've only got about two pesos left to my name at the moment so I'll be skipping out on that part of custom.
Despite being dirt poor I'm on board with any holiday that promotes and celebrates good food (ie Thanksgiving, Boxing Day) and will happily shell out for a good meal, but I'm especially zealous about a holiday that celebrates good food every month of the year! Feast your eyes on this and eat your heart out:

Thursday, May 28, 2009

Worst Name Ever

*This is not a joke

No Patience

This photo does not do justice to the heavy sludge of traffic that is now a permanent fixture outside our balcony. I call it a sludge because it does not flow in the way that typical city traffic does. The cars behave more like sludge in that they inch painfully forward until gravity (or the blare of horns) finally forces the buildup to burst forward in a sudden and jerky plop... and then a red light again. The buildup resumes and the horns blare, the entire routine repeats every 3 minutes and all the while I go slightly more mad with every red light. These Portenos do not believe in a single "Hey you!" or "Get going!" honk. They prefer to communicate their dissatisfaction by leaning against the horn of their cars until their wrists hurt from pushing too hard and display no regret or concern for the people who live in the buildings around them, i.e. me.
Here is further evidence that there are too many people in this city:
Rush hour on the subway makes you feel like this:


*I asked the woman facing me (in Spanish) "This is normal or this is crazy?" She answered with defeat in her voice "It's always like this."

Sunday, May 24, 2009

The GIBRALTAR


The Gibraltar is probably the nicest English pub in San Telmo, with it's dark wood, draft ales, plethora of whiskeys and traditional English grub. But like so many other impersonators, The Gibraltar just falls short of the originals it tries so hard to replicate. However, The Gibraltar cannot be blamed entirely for its shortcomings because (although I know a lot of people who would disagree) the English cuisine is a delicacy that needs to meet exact specifications in order to be recognizable. Beans on toast? Only if they're Heinz. Binoffe pie? It better have a thick layer of gooey toffee in the middle.
It was nice to order these things, and if I had no prior knowledge of what an English breakfast or a binoffe pie is supposed to taste like I would've still loved every bite. It's just that if you go to The Gibraltar looking for a piece of England, remember that the real thing is far better than the knock-off.
One thing that was an exact tranferance was the Manc-y bartender whose idea of a good joke is this:
"I've been married three times you know."
Me: "Oh wow, really?"
"Yeah, my first wife died from eating poisoned mushrooms."
Me: "That's bizarre."
"Yeah, then my second wife died from eating poisoned mushrooms too."
Me: "Oh my God, what?"
"And then I beat the third wife to death because she wouldn't eat the poisoned mushrooms"
Me: (I didn't understand a word of his punchline through his heavy accent, but he was laughing so I figured it was a joke I hadn't picked up on. Graham later told me the punchline and I swallowed the last quarter of my cider in two gulps and booked it out of there).

The Gibraltar, Peru 895 y Estados Unidos, San Telmo, Buenos Aires

Graffiti Nation V



All these images were photographed at different times and in different parts of the city. You know that you're really getting to know a city when you can spot the work of individual grafitti artists around town. Whoever is responsible for the last three walls must be quite well known because he has painted the outside of the Cultural Gallery on Sarmiento in the same vein. Check out the rest of my ever-expanding album on the city's finest wall art (or grafitti if that's your kick) and see if you can spot the distinctive artists through their work.

Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Inspiration


Inspiration comes in all shapes and sizes. It's been more than a week since I last wrote anything and I have to admit that I've been lacking inspiration. I'm trying to hold this blog to a high level of integrity, I won't write about just anything, only those things that I think are worthwhile or that I'm truly passionate about. So as I was standing in the kitchen, trying to think up reasons not to go to the gym, it struck me when I needed it most as I was drinking chocolate milk out of the carton. The milk! I love the milk here. I've been meaning to actually talk to somebody about it since I first got here but it's one of those things that unless it comes up in conversation you don't really remember to bring it up yourself.
"Hi mama! How are you?...I'm good thanks, just got back from work.... yeah it was the class with the jerk in it... no he wasn't mean to me today.... I will.... thanks....oh by the way, have I told you how delicious the milk is here?" - Not likely. So I'm taking this moment of lightning bolt inspiration to put down into words how wonderful said milk is.
Luckily for me I read a book before I came here that pointed out that while you may think you're doing a great thing for your health by drinking low-fat/skim/partially skimmed milk you are in fact doing your heart a disservice as the fat that's taken out of the milk has to be replaced with something else to maintain a cohesive chemical composition, and that something else is hydrogenated oxygen. And in actuality hydrogenated anything clogs your arteries far more effectively than the natural fats which occur in milk. Sorry for sounding like a bible-thumper but I had to mention that backstory to explain why I'm only drinking whole (entera) milk here. I like the whole milk in England and America, it's good. But you know what's even better than whole milk? Half-and-Half. Sometimes when I'm sad that's my comfort go-to, straight from the carton, and my decadent indulgence in coffee and white russians. It's a special treat and it's delicious. So you can only imagine my unbridled pleasure at discovering that the whole milk here tastes exactly like half-and-half! As the Italians would put it, it's squisito! I never do this at home, but here I find myself craving and drinking full glasses of milk. If only I had had milk this delicious as a child, I may have grown a few more inches before coming out of adolecense.
The chocolate milk is great too. But I find the carton detracts from the flavour if you look at it while drinking. That cow's udder is about to burst and he's giving you a thumbs up as if it's all okay. It's gross.

Sunday, May 10, 2009

Bad Teacher

I am not a natural teacher. I'm pleased when my students come in late because it means there's less time that I have to teach for and I get annoyed with them when they come back from break actually on time. I find it nearly impossible to come up with a smooth transition between topics, can barely keep a group discussion going for more than a couple minutes and I am too sensitive to a group's collective bored sighs and blase looks. The one time I had to teach a pre-intermediate class (which was really beginner but called so to make them feel better for not being able to advance higher despite the years they've spent at that level) I almost had to choke back tears when a student interrupted me midsentence with a finger in my face "Excuse me!", then he turned to the class "Does anyone understand her?". There was a ghastly silence and blank faces stared back at me. He turned to me again, "We don't understand you, so you have to speak more slower and more clearer" in an accusatory tone, hate seething out of his eyeballs as if I had been sent there at 8:00 in the morning to ruin his day and was personally responsible for all his linguistic failings.
I specifically chose to teach adults, I wouldn't even consider children, and now I'm wondering if that may have been a mistake. The adult mind has a harder time learning a language, this is a fact, so inevitably in every class there is someone who demands to know 'WHY?!' the verb becomes pluralized when talking about the first person in the present tense, WHY?! it is necessary to drop the 'who' when making a reduced relative clause and HOW?! are you supposed to know when the word ends in -ence instead of -ance. Children just accept that your word is golden. They don't question you but on the occassion that they do "Because it just is" is an acceptable explanation. Tell that to a frustrated 40-something and they throw their hands up, they roll theirs eyes, they slump in their chairs and they say something in Spanish that I can tell would be mildly offensive if I knew what they were saying.
Needless to say, teaching adults is strange, especially when you're markedly younger than your students. There's a dichotomoy of how much respect I should expect from them and how much I should give them. For instance, I can't tell if they're trying to be respectful or if they just can't remember my name, but I find it uncomfortable when they call me 'teacher' and no matter how many times I ask them to call me Alex they don't. On the other hand there are some students who give me no respect and it's really awkward when they're talking over me and the rest of the class is straining to hear me.
Even more strange, I have some classes that once congregated, quickly descend back into childhood. An example:
"Teacher, may I go to the bathroom?"
"Yes, of course, you don't have to ask and please, don't call me teacher."
"Okay, I'll be right back."
"While we wait for Estevan to get back why don't we talk about what we did this past weekend."
(Sustainable chatter for about 8 minutes, then Estevan walks back in and another student asks)
"Estevan! You were gone for so long, did you go number 2?!"
(Class descends into raucous laughter, borderline hysteria)
"Yes I did! I went number 2! Teacher, do you know what number one and number two is?"
"Yes, we have the same sayings in English."
"I had to sit on the toilette for so long!"
(People start gasping for breath from laughing too hard) .

I get the sense that the people who worked a little too hard during highschool are the ones who throw fits and huff and puff their way through my English classes because they can't stand not knowing the ins and outs of something. While the students who took it a bit easier are today's jokesters, and they're just so much more fun to be in a room with for a couple of hours.
So even though I'm not the best teacher I probably don't give myself enough credit. The hours are rough and the planning takes forever and sometimes I feel uncomfortable, sometimes my feelings are hurt and sometimes I just couldn't be bothered but I care about keeping them interested and I care about their progress. If that's not good enough for them then I'll just make fun of them on my blog.

Sunday, May 3, 2009

Baked Goods

Baked goods are near and dear to me in my life. When my family and I first moved to Bermuda I had a lot of trouble adjusting to life there so my mom would take me and my sister every Friday after school to an amazing bakery as a treat. Perhaps I am remembering it inaccurately but I recall this bakery as a little, limestone, square building occupying a spot in the fairway that divided the east and west flowing traffic of the only highway on the island. Without fail I always got a bottle of orange Crush and an apple tart and it was pure bliss. I savoured every crumb of that apple tart, licked every sticky finger and always lamented the fact that there wasn't more to enjoy as soon as it was gone. In the absence of an energetic social life at the age of 10 I looked forward to 'Bakery-Pit stop-Fridays' in the same way that I now look forward to happy hour after a long day at work.

This is probably why I have trouble walking by a bakery without pressing my nose up against the glass in my adult years. I had been resisting stopping in at the bakery located one block away from us, knowing that it would be a Pandora's Box of sorts, unleashing a flood of uncontrollable cravings. One Sunday afternoon the smell of fresh baked goods was just too powerful to resist and I found myself in there, mouth agape and eyes darting from shelf to shelf trying to mentally process the plethora of baked goods that rested on every available space. Heaps of croissants, buns, strawberry, ricotta, and marmalade frosted danishes, tarts and tartlettes, dulce de leche cookies, donuts, fried dough, chocolate, vanilla, assorted fruit and cheesecakes as far as the eye could see! I didn't get anything that day because it was too overwhelming, like someone who goes from having nothing to everything in an instant, I just didn't know what to do with myself so I left.

Unluckily for me I work very early in the morning, every morning, and must be confronted by the waft from the bakery almost everyday as the pastries start coming out of the oven. Like sailors to the siren's call it wasn't long before I found myself shipwrecked in there again, but this time with a plan. I bought an assortment of nearly everything and took them home to devour with Graham, and devour them we did. Since that fateful first day one or both of us have been in there almost everyday to pick up a little pick-me-up, and the rate of days I go to the gym has increased proportionally. One of the bakers even knows us by sight now, and although I can't exactly understand him, I'm sure he looks forward to seeing us as much as we look forward to buying from him, like the relationship that exists between addicts and their dealer.

Friday, May 1, 2009

A Good Picture Day







*certain images stolen from Graham