Thursday, April 30, 2009

Puerto Madero

El Puente de la Mujer (the Woman's Bridge) is one of the main attractions in the barrio of Puerto Madero (Madero Port). It's a strange thing, this port. Until 10 years ago the area around the docks had largely fallen into disrepair through neglect, but due to an aggressive revitalization project the area has been turned around into one of the most moneyed areas in town. High rise apartment buildings reaching in excess of 50 floors loom over the Rio de la Plata and command an impressive view of the city, no doubt. The famed Faena Hotel and Universe is located here where the likes of Antonio Banderas and Melanie Griffith can be spotted sipping on 80 peso cocktails. If you've ever been to Roosevelt Island in Manhattan then you get the gist of Puerto Madero. They're both sort of cut off and separate from the cities in which they are located and both have an almost eery, unnatural calmness in comparison to their surroundings. In my opinion Puerto Madero's eeriness stems from these massive luxury apartment buildings that are springing up into the sky wherever you look. They are exclusive living accommodations at a price to rival their physical height, teetering on the cusp of completion, but who in Buenos Aires has the money to live there? There are rich people here, but they typically live in the gated communities of the suburbs and for security reasons are very happy to remain there. For the more adventurous wealthy who don't mind hobnobbing with the riff raff on the walk to work there are already well established areas where they reside. In my limited amount of time here I have seen a lot of stratification and not so much upward mobility, perhaps I'm way off base, but who is intended to live in this interpretation of the 'high life' and where are they coming from?
If you can see past the vacant buildings there is a lot of charm to be enjoyed. First of all, the ecological reserve is tucked away behind said buildings and during the weekends it seems to be the agreed upon meeting place for anyone interested in a little street food, Latin beats, fresh air and open spaces (a coveted item in this city). In addition, the old loading cranes still align the docks and serve as a witness to the area's history.
For further reading about the abominations coming to Puerto Madero take a gander at this.

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